Security & Privacy
What to Do if Your Identity Is Stolen
A calm, step-by-step guide to take if your identity is stolen, covering how to secure accounts, contact your bank and credit bureaus, and report the crime.
Security & Privacy
A calm, step-by-step guide to take if your identity is stolen, covering how to secure accounts, contact your bank and credit bureaus, and report the crime.
The moment you suspect your identity is stolen, do three things in this order: call the fraud line printed on the back of any affected card, place a free credit freeze at all three major bureaus, and file a report at IdentityTheft.gov to get an official Identity Theft Report. Those moves stop new damage and unlock legal rights that make every dispute afterward faster and stronger.
Everything else is cleanup. Below is exactly how to do each step, what most people get wrong, and how the rules differ if you are outside the United States.
Speed matters most in the opening days, because a thief is racing to open accounts before you notice. Work this list top to bottom.
People routinely confuse these, and the confusion leaves them exposed. They are not the same tool.
A fraud alert is a flag telling lenders to take extra steps to verify your identity before extending credit. It is free, and you only contact one bureau, which is legally required to notify the other two. An initial fraud alert now lasts one year. If you have an Identity Theft Report, you can request an extended fraud alert that lasts seven years. The catch: an alert only asks lenders to verify you. A determined thief can still get through a rushed or careless check.
A freeze is the stronger option. It seals your credit file so no new lender can access it at all, which stops new-account fraud cold. The trade-off is friction: a freeze is per-bureau, so you must place it separately at all three, and you have to temporarily "thaw" it (usually with a PIN, often lifting within minutes online) whenever you legitimately apply for credit. For most identity-theft victims, a freeze at all three plus the FTC report is the right combination.
Do not stop at the big three. Consider freezing specialty bureaus too: ChexSystems (used by banks to approve new checking accounts), NCTUE (telecom and utility accounts), and Innovis, sometimes called the fourth credit bureau. Thieves love these because most people never think to lock them.
An Identity Theft Report from IdentityTheft.gov is not busywork. Under US law it entitles you to specific rights that a simple bank call does not: you can block fraudulent information from appearing on your credit report, place the seven-year extended fraud alert, and get fraudulent debts and inquiries removed without the creditor's cooperation. Businesses are also required to give you copies of records related to accounts the thief opened.
In many cases this report replaces the need for a police report. You may still want to file one locally, especially if a specific creditor demands it or if a physical crime (a stolen wallet, mail theft) was involved, but for most digital identity theft the FTC report carries the legal weight.
Bank and credit fraud get the attention, but three quieter attack surfaces cause lasting damage.
If someone files a tax return in your name to steal your refund, file IRS Form 14039, the Identity Theft Affidavit, and request an IP PIN (Identity Protection PIN) at IRS.gov/ippin. The IP PIN is a six-digit number the IRS requires on your return each year, so a thief cannot file without it. Warning sign: an IRS notice about a return you did not file, or being told a return was already filed under your Social Security number.
Report SSN misuse to the Social Security Administration's Office of the Inspector General at oig.ssa.gov, and check your earnings record through a my Social Security account for jobs you never held, which signals employment fraud. Do not request a new SSN except as a genuine last resort; it orphans your credit history and rarely helps.
If a thief convinces your carrier to move your number to their SIM, they intercept every SMS security code you rely on. Call your mobile provider and add a port-freeze or account PIN (Verizon calls it Number Lock, and every major carrier offers an equivalent). This is also why you should move two-factor authentication off SMS wherever possible; more on that below.
The playbook is the same, only the agencies change.
Once the fire is out, a little maintenance keeps it out. Turn on transaction alerts in your banking app for near-instant visibility. Pull your reports free every week from AnnualCreditReport.com, the only federally authorized US source, and read them for accounts or addresses you do not recognize. Adopt a password manager so every account gets a unique password, and enable app-based two-factor on your email, bank, and primary cloud account first.
None of this reflects carelessness on your part. Identity theft targets organized, sensible people every day. Work the steps in order and you take back control one confirmed reference number at a time.
Use a freeze if you want to actually block new accounts; it is the stronger tool and free in the US. A fraud alert only asks lenders to verify you and can be bypassed by a rushed check. Many people do both: a freeze at all three bureaus plus an extended fraud alert from their FTC report.
Often no. An FTC Identity Theft Report from IdentityTheft.gov carries the legal weight for most digital identity theft. File a police report if a specific creditor requires one, or if physical property like a wallet, passport, or mail was stolen.
Simple card fraud can be resolved in days once the bank reverses charges. New-account fraud, tax fraud, or SSN misuse can take weeks to months of follow-up. Keeping a detailed log and every reference number is what shortens it.
Yes. A freeze is not permanent; you temporarily thaw it with your PIN, usually lifting within minutes online for a set window or a specific lender, then it reseals. The minor inconvenience is worth the protection against new-account fraud.
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